Loving Life in Italy – The Dolomites

The Dolomites is one of the most beautiful and spectacular mountain landscapes in the world. We spent five glorious days there, and you should too. Avoid the long lines, the mobs of tourists, the inflated prices, and the summer heat of the rest of Italy. Here are our ideas for seniors, like us.

In 2018, Loving Life On The Go decided to establish a permanent base in Europe to travel from. We chose the city of Lucca, in Tuscany. That worked out very well for us and Maggie Mae. More on Lucca, some day.

One hot-as-hell summer in Italy we rented a Fiat Panda and drove up into the Alps for more temperate climes. It worked; Austrian temperatures were much more pleasant at around 25C, rather than 35-40C and humid in Lucca. 

After 10 pleasant days in Austria we descended from the Italian Alps on our way back to Lucca. The heatwave had not abated in the lower elevations of Italy. Desperate to not return to our hot and humid apartment in Lucca with no air conditioning, we did a one-eighty back into the Alps. Last minute, we had to pick a destination that was interesting and had accommodations available. Our pick was the winter resort village of Cortina d’Ampezzo. And a sensational pick it was!

Tip: Travel experts of all ilks will recommend that you not travel to Italy during the peak season, summer. They tell you the lines are long, the prices are astronomical, and the crowds are unbearable. They are right. What most of them don’t tell you is it is HOT, and it seems to be getting hotter every year. Mid to high 30s Celsius is the norm in summer throughout the lower elevations, from Genoa to Trieste, from Milan to Sicily, on the coasts and on the islands. For us, the only way to escape the summer heat in Italy and be able to enjoy the outdoors is to go up into the mountains. Mid to high 20s was the norm in the Dolomites. And we didn’t notice any large crowds of tourists. Favoloso!!

We didn’t do an extensive tour of the Dolomites, but I will try to impart some extra information about this incredible area of Italy. This was another in a long list of last-minute, unplanned excursions for Loving Life On The Go.

This post will cover our activities over our 5 days in the Dolomites, which included:

• Cortina d’Ampezzo
• Riding to the Top of Monte Tofane (site of the Women’s Alpine events in the 2026 Winter Olympics)
• Hiking around Cinque Torri (Five Towers rock formations)
• Hiking the Felizon River
• The food (my favourite part) and culture of the Dolomites
• Bolzano/Bozen

We will touch on the upcoming Milano Cortina 2026 Winter Olympic Games and cover a little history and culture of the Dolomites.

1. Keep in mind we were in our mid-fifties and early sixties at the time and Maggie Mae was only 1 year old. We had average fitness levels for our ages and few physical limitations. I don’t consider anything we did risky for us. However, please check the accessibility recommendations available for any activity you consider undertaking. For example, accessibility of the Freccia nel Cielo gondola ride is available here https://www.freccianelcielo.com/accessibilita/. Also, a link that may be helpful for people with disabilities is https://dolomitiaccessibili.it/mappa.php?categoria=3. Please be realistic about your abilities and stay safe.
2. It can get cold at higher elevations, even in summer, and weather can change quickly. Check the forecast before venturing up a mountain, bring water, and dress in layers.

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Cortina d’Ampezzo

Cortina d’Ampezzo, aka Cortina, is a fabulous winter playground. We knew that. Alpine skiing is the primary winter sport with championship calibre runs nearby. We knew that. The area hosted most of the alpine skiing events of the 1956 Winter Olympics. We knew all that. But Cortina d’Ampezzo is a fabulous summer playground too. Hiking, cycling, canoeing, kayaking, mountain climbing, stunning views from 10,000 feet, the list goes on. And all world-class.

Cortina is nestled in the Ampezzo Valley, in the heart of the Veneto Dolomites. Known as “The Queen of the Dolomites” for its breathtaking scenery, Cortina is surrounded by several of the highest peaks in the Dolomites, making it one of the most famous mountain resort areas in the world. 

The photo above is the view of the Monte Tofane mountain group from the front porch of the hotel we stayed at in Cortina d’Ampezzo. If you zoom into the centre of the mountain, you can see the three gondola stations we took to the very top. Continue reading for our adventure to the summit.

We were fortunate to book a nice 3-star hotel at the last minute. The Hotel Des Alpes afforded us a pleasant stay with an incredible view of the Monte Tofane group of mountains. One thing surprised us though; we were not allowed to take Maggie Mae into the dining room of the hotel. Most restaurants we’ve dined at in Italy permitted dogs, but not this 3-star hotel. To their credit, they served us at a discreet table just outside the restaurant; it was not a problem. 

I am aware that Cortina was considered a chic, high-end destination for the rich and famous. I am strangely drawn to see, if not quite experience, how the other half lives; I think many people are. But I am not a celebrity hound; I may admire their skill, if they have any, without being jealous or even interested in their fame or fortune. I like to ferret out the things that regular people, like myself, can enjoy at these locations; the scenery, the cuisine, the culture, the activities, and the history. We found lots of fun and affordable things to do in and around Cortina that summer without blowing the budget.

I’ve noted that names like Ernest Hemingway, Brigitte Bardot and Ingrid Bergman are still being bandied about to exaggerate the cachet of Cortina. But those are names from the past. That period of heightened popularity in the 50s and 60s was likely initiated by the 1956 Winter Olympics, the first games to be televised worldwide. I don’t think the rich and famous dominate Cortina as much these days. We saw plenty of middle-class in Cortina. Next month, Cortina will co-host the 2026 Winter Olympic Games. Perhaps that event will re-ignite the glitterati’s interest in Cortina. If not, the rest of us will continue to enjoy it.

Corso Italia, the main shopping street of Cortina d’Ampezzo is cobblestone and pedestrian-only; perfect for a pleasant stroll in the morning, afternoon, or evening. From June to September, daytime temperatures are much more pleasant than south of the Alps. Bars (Italian coffee shops) provide respites for a caffè, a pastry, a light meal, or a casual drink until about 8 p.m. Yes, the downtown has its high-end fashion shops, jewelry shops, galleries, and antique shops to browse through, but there are also taverns, restaurants, pizza places, local artisan shops, sporting goods and sportswear shops, etc. The main street is ideal for una passeggiata (an evening stroll).

Tip: Coffee shops in Italy are called bars because there is an actual bar where patrons can stand and be served. Most bars in Italy charge less if you drink your coffee and eat your pastry while standing at the bar. Table service usually costs extra. And after all, how long does it take to drink an espresso and scarf down a cornetto.

Tip: Una passeggiata (an evening stroll) is customary throughout much of Italy, particularly on weekends. The idea is for the family to dress nicely, walk together through a shopping area, greet friends and relatives in the street, and then stop at a bar for an aperitivo (drink and a complimentary light snack). The aperitivo, another great Italian tradition, is meant to open the stomach for dinner. The word aperitivo comes from the Latin word “aperire”, which means “to open”. After the aperitivo, tradition says you go for a light, late-evening dinner, typically after 8:00 p.m. This worked well in the past, when Italians had their main meal of the day around 1:00 p.m. Sadly, these traditions are fading into history, particularly in the big urban centres.

The Basilica dei Santi Filippo e Giacomo, with its campanile (bell tower), is a centrepiece on the main street of Cortina d’Ampezzo. The Basilica is dedicated to two of the Apostles, Filippo (Phillip) and Giacomo (James), who are the patron saints of Cortina d’Ampezzo. The Baroque interior includes a beautiful pipe organ.

The Chiesa di San Francesco is a modest little church on the edge of downtown Cortina. I wish I had gone into this one. Frankly, we’ve seen so many churches in our travels, we are churched-out. But I do appreciate the modest churches more than the grand basilicas. To me, the modest churches project more of what churches should represent.

The 2026 Winter Olympics

The 2026 Winter Olympics is happening February 6-22, 2026, at sites across Lombardy and Northeast Italy. Milan and Cortina are co-hosting these games. Several events will be held in the Dolomites.

Cortina d’Ampezzo hosted the Winter Olympics on its own in 1956. This was after the 1944 Cortina Winter Olympics were cancelled due to WWII. 

In 2026, the women’s alpine events will be held at the Tofane Alpine Skiing Centre on Monte Tofane, just outside Cortina d’Ampezzo. The men’s alpine events will be held in the central Italian Alps at the Stelvio Ski Centre  on Monte Valletta, near Bormio, which is in the upper Valtellina Valley of the Province of Sondrio.

Curling, biathlon, and the sliding events will also be held in the Cortina d’Ampezzo area.

Milan will host many events, including ice hockey, speed skating, figure skating, and the opening ceremonies.

The Valtellina area will also host snowboarding, freestyle skiing, and the new event for this year, ski mountaineering.

Ski jumping and Nordic skiing will take place in the Val di Fiemme area of the Dolomites.

The closing ceremonies will take place in Verona.

Please note that some of the sites that we visited in the Dolomites, like Monte Tofane, will be closed to the general public during the Olympic Games.

As you watch the games, be on the lookout for the locations you read about here.

A dichotomy of culture

The culture of the Dolomites is heavily influenced by its proximity to Austria. Prior to WWI, Italy was part of the Triple Alliance with Austria-Hungary and Germany. It was a defensive pact. The territory that makes up the regions of Fruili-Venezia Giulia, Veneto, Trentino, and South Tyrol, as they are called today, were part of Austria at the time. When WWI broke out, Italy stayed neutral, declaring Germany and Austria-Hungary were not engaged in a defensive operation.

Secret negotiations with the Allies (mainly France and England) led to the Treaty of London, signed in April 1915. The treaty promised Italy control over the territory on its border with Austria-Hungary, from Trentino to Trieste, plus numerous islands along the Adriatic coast, parts of Dalmatia, Albania, and the Ottoman Empire. Italy opened a new front along its border with the Austria-Hungary Empire. The Dolomites were a key part of that front. After the war, the Allied countries awarded Italy with Fruili-Venezia Giulia, Veneto, Trentino, and South Tyrol and a permanent seat at the League of Nations, but not the other territories Italy was promised. Some suggest this betrayal led to the rise of fascism in Italy. 

This exchange of territory has led to the dichotomy that exists today in the Dolomites; a blend of Austrian and Italian people, with Austrian and Italian cultures, German and Italian languages, Italian and Austrian cuisines, and two sets of customs. What brings them together are the alpine influences in activities, sports, and architecture. 

Languages

Throughout the Dolomites, both Italian and German are spoken, German more so in the north, and mmore Italian in the south. 75% of the Dolomiti identify German as their first language.

Street signs in the Dolomites are in German, Italian, or both, with a little English mixed in. Shop signs are one of these three languages. 

Centred around Val di Fassa is a third official language. Ladin, the world’s last spoken Latin dialect, is a Romance language that is spoken mainly in the Dolomites in the provinces of South Tyrol, Trentino, and Belluno. The Ladin community has managed to preserve their language and traditions. 

Street Scene

Alpine architecture is evident throughout Cortina. Wood is the building material of choice, although concrete is making inroads. Buildings with wooden walls, heavy timber framing, gently sloping roofs, and wide eaves provide warmth and support for the heavy snows. The plethora of wood balconies with bright flowers hanging from them add to the beauty of Cortina streets. The balconies also function as platforms to enjoy the breathtaking views, year round.

Bright flowers in street planters and street art in the towns and villages add to the beauty.

Rifugi

The Dolomites, like many mountain ranges in the world, have rifugi (refuges) scattered throughout. Rifugi were originally accessible only by foot and provided basic food and shelter to climbers and hikers. Some have advanced to become mountain resorts, tourist destinations with full-service restaurants, inns, and access by road, ski lifts, and gondolas. 

The Dolomites have mountain pastures at high elevation. These pastures are called malghe, in Italian. Some malghe have buildings that are small farms or shepherd huts. These structures are, confusingly, also called malghe. While malghe were typically related to a farming operation, they may offer food for passing hikers. Like rifugi, some malghe have transitioned to provide more sophisticated services, like farm stays. 

Sports and Activities

Popular outdoor activities in the Dolomites include: 

• Alpine and Nordic skiing
• Snowboarding
• Hiking
• Cycling
• Mountain climbing
• Rock climbing
• Water sports, like kayaking, canoeing, and rafting

During the winter, the Dolomites is abuzz with outdoor sports. Encompassing 18 majestic peaks, the Dolomites are home to one of the world’s largest ski area called Dolomiti Superski, with 12 ski resorts and 30,000 acres of ski runs.

Since the nineteenth century, assisted climbing routes have existed in the Dolomites to allow faster and safer movement among the mountains. These routes are called vie ferrate (iron paths). In WWI, many more vie ferrate were built to help facilitate the movement of troops in the Dolomites. The vie ferrate consisted of ropes, iron pins, carved footholds and handholds, wooden ladders, and other structures. After the world wars, more vie ferrate were created for sport use, and the existing ones were upgraded with steel cables, metal ladders, metal staircases, metal bridges, and zip lines. Some vie ferrate connect villages, former military posts, and rifugi; others were built solely for sport or access to areas of natural beauty; and some high mountain vie ferrate provide challenging climbs to mountain summits. Special climbing equipment is required to traverse vie ferrate. Today, the routes are maintained by the Club Alpino Italiano (Italian Alpine Club) and the South Tyrol Alpine Club. I don’t expect our readers to challenge the vie ferrate, but it is nice to know about them.

Ten long-distance (multi-day) footpaths, called alte vie (high paths), traverse the Dolomites. Predictably they are named Alta Via 1, Alta Via 2,…, Alta Via 10. Rifugi provide services to the hikers on these routes.

Other activities in the Dolomites include golf, curling, ice skating, ice hockey, and snowshoeing. Cortina d’Ampezzo has an ice hockey team in the Italian Hockey League Serie A, the top-tier Italian professional hockey league.

Annual events

In Italy and Austria, Roman Catholicism is the predominant religion. Several Catholic ceremonies take place outdoors throughout the year. We just missed experiencing the Bonfires for the Virgin Mary. On the night of Ferragosto (August 15th), Cortina d’Ampezzo celebrates the Virgin Mary by lighting large bonfires. Bonfires are lit in Cortina and in the surrounding villages as darkness falls. Locals and visitors gather around the fires bonding in the peace and tranquility. Additionally, a giant letter “M” is lit on Monte Tofane to honour Mary.

Food

In Cortina d’Ampezzo, restaurants featured an exciting mix of local Tyrolean and Italian ingredients. You’ll find:

• Speck
• Prosciutto di San Daniele DOP
• Local polenta (cornmeal)
• Beetroot
• Guinea fowl
• Deer
• Rabbit
• Veal
• Pork
• Beef
• Sauerkraut
• Radicchio
• Pumpkin
• …and more

presented in dishes like:

• Casunziei all’Ampezzana
• Canederli
• Pumpkin Risotto with Local Cheese
• Ricotta Gnocchi with Speck, Local Mushrooms, and Smoked Ricotta Cheese
• Ricotta Gnocchi with Treviso Radicchio, Smoked Ham, and Red Wine Sauce
• Spinatspätzle (Spinach Spätzle)
• Pasta al Ragù Bianco di Manzo (Pasta with White Beef Sauce)
• Hirschgulasch mit Storo Polenta (Deer Goulash with Storo Polenta)
• Costolette di Cervo alla Griglia (Grilled Deer Chops)
• Glazed Guinea Fowl with Demiglace and Chestnut Purée
• Pork Shank with Polenta and Sauerkraut
• Wiener Schnitzle
• Salsicce, Funghi e Polenta alla Griglia (Sausages, Mushrooms, and Polenta on the Grill)
• Venison Ragù
• Insalata di Treviso Radicchio, Local Cheese, and Speck
• Crespelle Gratinata, Gelato alla Vaniglia e Frutti di Bosco (Gratin Crepes, Vanilla Ice Cream and Wild Berries)
• Lo Strudel di Mele (Apple Strudel)

Casunziei is a stuffed half-moon pasta, typically filled with beetroot and potato and served with butter. The name is from the Ladin language. 

Canederli (knödel in German) are large, traditional bread dumplings with a Tyrolean influence. Apparently, they are called Chenedi in Cortina d’Ampezzo, but I didn’t see that. Whatever they are called, they may be filled with meat, cheese, and spices and served in a broth or with butter. As a dessert, they are made with a fruit filling. They are more popular as you get closer to the Austrian border.

Spätzle is a soft, irregular-shaped, egg noodle common in German-speaking regions of Europe. The irregular shape allows the accompanying sauce to cling to the noodles. Spätzle is commonly served with a creamy mushroom sauce, a speck, cream, and cheese sauce, brown butter and sage sauce, or beside a goulash with its gravy.

Of course, pizza is ubiquitous in Italy and the Dolomites are no exception.

Crespelle (Italian-style crepes) are offered as a light meal, filled with savoury ingredients like ricotta and spinach. Crespelle may also be served as a dessert with berries and gelato. Palatschinken (Austrian-style crepes) are typically filled with a jam, chocolate, and nuts.

Menus in the Dolomites list the dishes in any combination of Italian, German, and English.

Desserts

Kaiserschmarrnis is a sweet, eggy pancake in the Dolomites that is served as a light, sweet entree or as a dessert. The pancake is torn into bitesize pieces and served with a fruit compote or a jam. Popular after skiing, hiking, cycling, or climbing in the mountains, Kaiserschmarrnis is available in the rifugi (mountain refuges) scattered across the Dolomite mountains.

Other local desserts you will find include various Strudels, Sacher Torte, and Gelato with Berries. 

Carafòi is a sweet treat from Valle d’Ampezzo. I don’t remember seeing them in shops or on any restaurant menus, but I understand they are thin, deep-fried, very light strips of pastry that are dusted with icing sugar.  Carafòi seem like my grandmother’s Crostoli, which I very much enjoyed in my youth. It seems there are various names throughout Italy for these treats. Carafói are traditionally flavoured with honey and/or grappa. In other areas of Italy, the same treat is flavoured with Marsala or some other fortified wine. I don’t remember my grandmother’s tasting of any alcohol. 

On the Cheese Menu

We didn’t have the time in the Dolomites to sample many cheeses. Frankly, I forget which ones we did try. But my curiosity of customs led me to do some research that might whet your appetite if you travel to the Dolomites. My research tells me popular cheeses in the Dolomites include Piave DOP, Casolét, Asiago DOP, Stelvio DOP, Ricotta Affiumicata (Smoked Ricotta), and Graukase (Grey Cheese).

A cheese with a grandiose name is Dolomitenkönig (King of the Dolomites). It is made from fresh cow milk sourced from the Pustertal Valley in the Dolomites. It is a soft cheese with a taste that is slightly sweet and nutty. The cheese takes its name from King Laurin, the dwarf king of the Rosengarten.

Mythology: King Laurin was the mythological king of a race of dwarves in the Rosengarten mountain group. The king lived in a subterranean palace with an impressive rose garden at the palace entrance. Laurin decided to take a wife, but his lady love and her family spurned him. He got so angry that he used his magical powers to turn the roses into the dramatic peaks that are the Dolomites, vowing that no one will see the beauty of the roses by day or night. However, the legend says he forgot about the twilight hours. The pink and red glow of the roses became Enrosadira, the phenomenon that makes the Dolomites glow shades of pink and red at sunrise and sunset. More on this below.

Malga cheese is made from raw, unpasteurized cow’s milk sourced from the high altitudes of the Dolomites. The cheese is named after the pastures and the farms that exist at these high altitudes, the malghe. It is a semi-hard to hard, high-fat cheese with a flavour profile that varies among acidic, pungent, spicy, and nutty, depending on the season and age. 

Piave DOP is a hard, milky-sweet, cow’s milk cheese that grows in intensity as it ages. The cheese has the faint aroma of Alpine herbs and flowers. Aged Piave cheese can be grated like Parmigiano Reggiano and is naturally lactose-free, as is most hard, aged cheeses.  

Miele delle Dolomiti Bellunesi DOP (a famous Belluno Dolomites honey) is a delicacy produced with nectar gathered by honey bees (Apis mellifere) from the flowers of the Belluno Dolomites. The honey is sweet and intense, with a slight aroma of Alpine herbs and flowers. The honey pairs well with the local cheese, like Piave DOP.

Wines

The valleys and hills of the Dolomites nurture an abundance of vineyards and wineries. Only three grapes are native to the Dolomites: Nosiola is a white wine grape, and Teroldego and Marzemino are used for red wine. 

For people drawn to red wines, local Merlots, Cabernet Sauvignons, and Cabernet Francs are readily available. There is also the red wine Teroldego Rotoliano, which is made from the native Teroldego grape. 

On the white side, Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio, and Chardonnay are produced locally. The province of Trentino is a major producer of Chardonnays. Also, Trentino created the prestigious Trento DOC (or Trentodoc) appellation to cover their high-quality sparkling white and rosé wines produced in the traditional or classic method. These sparkling wines are made to more rigorous production standards that are comparable to those of the Champagne PDO. Trentino also produces a Vin Santo style dessert wine made from the native Nosiola grape.

While not produced in the Dolomites, the proximity to the production areas of Valpolicella DOC, Amarone DOCG, and Prosecco DOCG make these wines popular in the Dolomites.  

The Tyrolean and Bavarian influences bring white Traminer, its spicier clone Gewürztraminer, Müller-Thurgau, and Kerner varietals to the tables of the Dolomites. Lagrein and Vernatsch are Tyrolean reds.

Beer

There are plenty of Austrian and German beers served in the Dolomites. Styles: Weißbier, Helles, Pilsner, Bock, Doppel bock, Weiss, Märzen, and lagers; Brands: Erdinger, Paulander, Edelweiss, Stiegl.

And, of course, there are the popular Italian beers: Styles: Lager, Pilsner; Brands: Birra Moretti, Peroni, Menabrea, Ichnusa. 

But there are a few beers originating from the Dolomites. Dolomiti is a beer brand brewed by the Pedavena Brewery in the commune Pedavena, in the province of Belluno. Dolomiti brand beers are distributed to only food service establishments through the HoReCa Channel; check it out if you are interested. Dolomiti Pils is brewed in accordance with traditional alpine brewing techniques with pure alpine spring water and 100% Italian barley. Pils is characterized by its clean, crisp, refreshing taste. Dolomiti 8° Gradi is a doppel bock from the same brewery. 8° Gradi is high in alcohol at 8% vol. Pedavena Brewery has several other beers too.

Birrificio Gjulia is a brewpub located in the village of Cividale del Friuli, in the province of Udine, Italy. I had their unfiltered and unpasteurized dark beer, Sud Nera, at the Bar Hotel Fiames, just north of Cortina. It is a strong beer, at 8% ABV, with the full-bodied, but pleasant, taste and aroma of coffee. Sud Nera was very good.

Tucher Helles Hefe Weizen is a wheat beer out of Nuremberg, Germany. Wheat beers tend to be too floral and fruity tasting to me. But Tucher Brewery is an example of the Bavarian influence on the Dolomites.

Forst is a brewery that I like. It originated in Lagundo, in the province of Bolzano, which is on the western edge of the Dolomites. Forst has a range of Bavarian styles of beer. Premium, their most popular beer, is a light, fresh beer with a floral aroma. Forst Sixtus is a dark, doppel bock with a toasted malt aroma and the taste of caramel; it’s a beer to sit back and savour slowly. Forst Sixtus and the unfiltered Ichnusa beer from Sardinia were my beers of choice while living in Italy.

Grappa

Now who could forget Grappa, 80-90 proof, and everyone’s favourite after-dinner digestivo to turn down. I have seen many glasses of Grappa left behind; I’ve left a few myself. The people of the Dolomites are the primary producers of Grappa; The drink is the source of great pride among all the producers; they all swear theirs is the best. You can’t finish a meal there without being offered a glass of Grappa.

Grappa is made from the grape leavings of winemaking, including mostly skins, but also stems, seeds, and yeast residue. Grappa is aged at least six months in wooden barrels, and then stored another six months in air-tight glass carboys, before being bottled.

Another popular way to enjoy Grappa is in your espresso to make a Caffè Corretto. It is a nice little afternoon or after meal kick.

The Dolomites near Cortina d’Ampezzo

I’ve wondered what is so compelling about the Dolomites; why they are so different than other mountain ranges. First, the range is distinctive for the verticality of its mountains and crags. Second, the pale grey colouring comes from the mineral dolomite, which is the primary component of limestone. In fact, before the composite rock was named, and the mountain range was named after the rock, the area was called Monti Pallidi (Pale Mountains). These two characteristics result in a stunning colour contrast between the grey rock and the lush, green that surrounds it. 

But another interesting characteristic of the rock is its underlying rose colouring, which turns the rock pink at sunrise and blazing red at sunset. The Dolomites were formed from coral sea beds that were pushed up when the African and European continents collided. The rock reflects the colour of the light hitting it, grey during the day, and shades of red when the early morning and late evening sun hits it. This magical display is a rare effect called enrosadira. Enrosadira is a Ladin word meaning “turning pink”.

The formation of the mountains from coral sea beds facilitates the study of marine life from the Triassic period.

All this makes the Dolomites among the most beautiful and spectacular mountain landscapes in the world, a valuable archeological trove, and a UNESCO World Heritage site.

The Dolomites span 1,400 square kilometres in four Italian regions, Trentino, Alto Adige/South Tyrol, Veneto, and Friuli Venezia Giulia, plus a small area in Austria. They range from the Rienza River and the Pusteria Valley in the north to the Cismon and Femme valleys in the south, and from the Isarco and Adige valleys in the west to the Piave River and the Cadore area in the east. 

Monte Antelao

The photo above is Monte Antelao taken from Monte Tofane. Monte Antelao is the highest peak in the Eastern Dolomites, at 3,264 metres. It is known as the “King of the Dolomites” even though it is only the second highest in all the Dolomites. Monte Marmolada is the highest, but it is know as the “Queen of the Dolomites” I assume because it is composed mostly of limestone, not the mineral dolomite. Monte Antelao is an “ultra-prominent” peak, which means it has a topographic prominence of at least a 1500 metres; basically they stick up at least 1500 metres all around.

I found no sign of a cable car or any other transportation up Monte Antelao. There are some rifugi (mountain huts) at lower altitudes around the mountain that provide respites or serve as bases for experienced hikers, and there appear to be helipads that provide transportation to the rifugi.

Focus on Monte Tofane

The Monte Tofana group consists of three mountains, Tofana di Mezzo (3,241 m), Tofana di Dentro (3,238 m), and Tofana di Rozes (3,225 m). Tofana di Mezzo is the 3rd highest peak in all the Dolomites, after Monte Marmolada and Monte Antelao. 

There are gondolas to take you up Monte Tofane to world class skiing, snowboarding, hiking, sightseeing, and rock climbing. This mountain group was the site of the alpine skiing during the 1956 Cortina Winter Olympic Games, and it will be the site for the women’s alpine events during the Milano Cortina 2026 Winter Olympic Games.

A gondola lift system, called Freccia nel Cielo (Arrow in the Sky) goes from Cortina d’Ampezzo to Cima Tofana di Mezzo (top of Tofana di Mezzo). There are two gondola stops before you arrive at the top; one at Col Druscie, and one at Ra Valles. There is a restaurant at each of the first two stops, and a bar (coffee shop) at the final stop.

Bacino Artificiale Poʻ Drusciè is an artificial reservoir near the Col Dresciè gondola stop on Monte Tofane. The reservoir provides water for snow-making on the mountain group. The reservoir area is a popular tourist stop; it is a short walk from the Col Dresciè gondola stop.

The views from the terrace at Cima Tofana di Mezzo (the top of Tofana di Mezzo) are amazing. Lounge chairs are available to rest up, breathe in the fresh air, or just meditate. There is a bar to enjoy a coffee or light lunch.

Some people hike up the mountain, and then take a well-deserved rest in those chairs. Most people, like us, take the Freccia nel Cielo gondola up.

The views are spectacular!

In 2018, Cortina and the area celebrated fifty years of the Tofana and Marmolada cableway systems, hence to painting on the side of the building to commemorate that event.

Some people choose to sun bathe on the terrace. We chose to slather on the sunscreen. The sun’s rays are stronger at that elevation.

There is a staircase that goes above and behind the gondola stop. From there you can walk around and see the summit of Tofana di Mezzo.

If you are fit, you can try the 15 minute hike to the summit. Be warned that part of the trail follows along some cliff edges, there are a few switchbacks, and there is some loose gravel on the trail. Appropriate footwear is a must. Because of the elevation, you may have to stop to catch your breath. The payoff is you get a spectacular 360 degree view of the Dolomites. We did not go to the summit, primarily because of Maggie Mae. Deb did take Maggie up the trail for a short distance, while I photographed them from afar. 

Note: We didn’t notice any breathing problems for us or Maggie Mae.

Italians are so dog-friendly, we were allowed to take Maggie Mae on the Freccia nel Cielo gondola and go up Monte Tofana di Mezzo. Dogs are free on the gondola; a leash and muzzle are required.

The views from Cima Tofana di Mezzo gondola station are quite stunning. This is one of those places where you awe at the majesty of the world, the stresses of everyday life melt away, and extreme calmness rushes through you. From the terrace you can see Cortina d’Ampezzo, Valle d’Ampezzo, Monte Antelao, Punta Sorapiss, Monte Cristallo, Monte Civetta, Croda di Lago, and beyond.

Now, imagine living in Cortina d’Ampezzo. You start your Saturday taking your dog for a short walk along Corso Italia to a local’s bar (coffee shop) for a cornetto (croissant), a cappuccino, and banter with the barista. Next stop, the panificio (bakery), ortofrutteria (fruit and vegetable store), and salumeria (deli) for the ingredients to your picnic lunch. After you ride the Freccia nel Cielo (Arrow in the Sky) with you dog to Cima Monte Tofana di Mezzo, you take in the stunning views of the valley you left behind. You breathe in truly fresh air. Your dog fertilizes the mountain. You read a newspaper or a book on one of the lounge chairs. After you lunch on fresh bread, Prosciutto di San Danielle, your selection of local cheeses, and some fresh fruit, you burn off a few calories with a short walk above the gondola station. If you are fit and a bit daring, you could hike to the summit for the amazing views on the other side of the mountain. You return to the gondola station to rest up and read a few more chapters. You ride the gondola back to town, and clean up for la passeggiata serale, aperitivo, e cena (the evening stroll, aperitif, and dinner). You note the number of greetings you receive while you stroll. La dolce vita!

As we descended Monte Tofane on the Freccia nel Cielo gondola, we saw some of the ski runs of the Tofane Alpine Skiing Centre. These runs will be used for the Women’s Alpine Skiing events at the Milano Cortina 2026 Winter Olympic Games. The women’s downhill course will go between the two triangular rock formations at the top of the photo above.

There is an area to walk around each gondola station and take in the views. At Col Druscie, there are two observatories and the Col Druscié Astroring walking trail. The observatories seem to provide viewings of outer space. The walking trail is an instructional space walk. We didn’t check out either.

As well, there are more challenging hiking trails that head out from each gondola station. Please, user beware.

When we were in Austria on this trip, Maggie Mae, at just over one year old, encountered a running stream for the first time. The stream above, near the gondola station in Cortina d’Ampezzo, was her second foray into a stream. She has become fascinated with running water. Of course, her short legs preclude her from venturing very deep into the water, but she had a great time. 

Cinque Torri

Cinque Torri (Five Towers) are five dramatic rock formations near Cortina d’Ampezzo. The area is famous for rock climbing, hiking, and a World War I open-air museum, and is part of Dolomiti Superski. The formations are named Torre Grande, Torre Romana, Torre Quarta Bassa, Torre Inglese, Torre Quarta Alta. Torre Grande, the tallest, reaches an altitude of 2,361 meters.

A ski lift takes you from the road, Passo Falzarego, up to Rifugio Scoiattoli, which is an easy one minute walk to Cinque Torri. Alternative trails beside the lift are there for the taking. Rifugio Scoiattoli is a nice mountain cabin providing beds and serving breakfasts and dinners year round. The ski lift was easy to get on and off without instruction.

There are trails of moderate difficulty all around Cinque Torri, so you can get views of the towers from all angles. There are some easy routes suitable for families with children and for seniors. The trails come very close to the towers. The trail shown above goes through a crevice between two of the towers.

Rock climbing is a very popular activity at Cinque Torri, not that I would expect any of our readers to try it. There are all levels here, from novice climbers taking lessons to experienced climbers making it look easy. I get uneasy just watching them.

The Cinque Torri Open-air WWI Museum

The Cinque Torri Open-air WWI Museum is an outdoor museum of World War I trenches, bunkers, and buildings that were on the front lines with the Austria-Hungary Empire. You get a real feel for what the soldiers saw as you look out from the bunkers and trenches towards Austria.

The trenches and hills of the museum had steep stairs. It was easy to imagine the men crouched down and running through these trenches because I have seen it dozens of times on TV. But then it was hard to imagine me crouched down, running up and down these steep stairs with full winter gear on and under artillery fire.

Tip: People with bad leg joints or poor leg strength need to consider the steep stairs. There were no railings on the stairs. The museum’s website says “The entire museum area is crisscrossed by paths that can be traveled on foot; these are mountain trails and therefore require the necessary equipment for a hike, such as suitable footwear and clothing.”

There are three open-air WWI museums in the Dolomites, at Cinque Torri (Five Towers), at Monte Piana, and at the Lagazuoi mountain range. All of these are not far from Cortina d’Ampezza. 

Tunnel warfare became an important tactic of the battles in The Dolomites. Both sides dug tunnels for protection, movement of troops and supplies, and for offensive attacks. They even tunnelled under enemy positions and set off mines. Some of these tunnels are nearby on Monte Lagazuio and are part of the WWI open-air museum in that area.

The Rifugio 5 Torri is another rifugio neat the Cinque Torri. This rifugio served as a base on the front lines for the Italian army in WWI. It was visited by King Victor Emmanuel III during WWI to encourage the troops. The rifugio has provided summer beds for nature lovers since 1937. Last time I looked, in January 2026, this rifugio was “temporarily closed”, perhaps for the winter.

The museum is an easy five minute walk from Rifugio Scoiattoli for anyone with good mobility.

Hiking the Felizon River

A hike along The Felizon River to the Cascate di Fanes (Fanes Waterfalls) was in store for our last day in the Dolomites. The trail is easily accessed from the parking lot on Strada Statale 51 d’Alemanga.

The waterfalls is an impressive cascade down several tiers into the Fanes Gorge. We didn’t make it to the falls because of Maggie’s penchant for hunting and checking under every rock. The hour was getting late and we had to head back to the car.

By all accounts, and from the pictures I’ve seen, the 90-metre waterfall is worth the hike. The falls feeds the Felizon River. For climbers, there is a secured via ferrata route that passes behind the falls.

Leaving the Dolomites

On the day we departed Cortina to return to our home in Lucca, I chose a route that “allowed us to explore more of the Dolomites”, I said. Secretly, I also wanted to experience some of the famed winding mountain passes that lead into Italy. I was thinking of the famed Stelvio Pass, but I knew that Pass was too far west from us, so I settled for the Brenner Pass. We drove north on SS51 into the South Tyrol region of Italy, and then west towards the Brenner Pass. The Pass itself was a disappointment, nothing like the Stelvio Pass, so I turned south to head home when I noticed an interesting looking secondary road that was going our way. SS508, a winding, barely two-lane blacktop would have to do. So I guided our car through the hairpin turns out of the Dolomite mountains with the deft handling of a Formula 1 driver. Not really, because our orange Fiat Panda rental had no guts and I had a 16-month old Scottish Terrier in the backseat who got car sick back then. Oh well.

The end of SS508 dumped us into the city of Bolzano/Bozen.

Bolzano/Bozen

Bolzano/Bozen is a city on the edge of the Dolomites. In fact, it markets itself as the “Gateway to the Dolomites”. The city is in the South Tyrol province (aka Alto Adige); it is heavily influenced by the Austrian culture. Bolzano is the Italian name for the city. Bozen is the German name.

We rolled into Bolzano at about 1:30 p.m. on a Sunday. It was the beginning of the second week of August, and still hot-as-hell in all the lower elevations of Italy. There was NO ONE around. Bolzano was like a ghost town. The only place we could find food was a pizza kiosk (chiosco, in Italian). But it was so hot, we had to eat in the car with the A/C running, if not for our sake, then for Maggie Mae.  

Tip: Let this be a lesson to all. Italian factories, shops, and restaurants, except those in the busy tourist areas, take the second and third week of August as their summer vacation. So do most of the residents. They go to the islands, beaches, lakes, or mountains for cooler temperatures. This vacation period is centred around the Italian public holiday called Ferragosto, which is celebrated on the 15th of August. This date coincides with the religious holiday, the Assumption of Mary. Ferragosto is a public holiday.

We headed home to Lucca.

Note: When we returned to Bolzano/Bozen for its Christmas Market years later, we found the city to be wonderful. Perhaps more on Bolzano some day.

Summary

So, riding a gondola to stunning views from 10,000 feet, hiking scenic nature trails, photographing mountain vistas, world-class shopping and dining, and soaking up the mix of Italian and Tyrolean cultures were all we could pack into our 5 days in the Dolomites. But there is more there, much more.

Maggie Mae had a fabulous time in the Alps, and so did we.

Summer Activities We Regretted Not Doing in the Dolomites

• Kayaking, canoeing, horse riding, biking
• Finishing the hike to the Cascate di Fanes (Fanes Waterfalls)
• Taking the cable car up Monte Cristallo to Rifugio Son Forca
• Visiting more towns
• Sampling more of the Dolomiti cuisine and wines

Summer Activities in the Dolomites That Were Not for Us

• Rock climbing
• Multi-day hiking
• Paragliding
• Hang gliding

Please check out our other Italian adventures at Travel Italy.

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