Iceland – Land of Fire and Ice
February 14, 2017
It took some convincing to get Rick to agree that we should start our Multi-year Travel Adventure in Iceland. “Who leaves Canada in January to go to Iceland?” “How many places are colder than Ontario Canada in January?” Well, Siberia probably. Realizing the Aurora Borealis (aka Northern Lights) were most visible in winter tipped the scale for photographer Rick. Plus, we know Iceland Travel Tips are popular now.
So we spoke to a couple of previous visitors, scanned the web, and developed a plan where we would start our Icelandic travels in the major city of Reykjavik, visit the Golden Circle then Vik and the Southeastern Coast and round off our trip by staying near the airport (I was really thinking of the Blue Lagoon Spa) outside Keflavik. Reading that the unpredictable weather made traveling the roads in the north difficult and perhaps risky, we opted to save that region for a future summer visit.
We were in Iceland for 10 days, quite a leisurely pace that could have been comfortably cut to 6 days. However, seeing the Aurora Borealis is a matter of lucky timing so we extended our stay to increase our chances – which paid off because the best view was on our last night.
Iceland Travel Tips: “nothing is open in Reykjavik in winter at 6:30 a.m.”
We arrived at our hotel around 6:30 a.m. Saturday hoping that our room would be available – no such luck. So we checked our luggage and set out for a coffee shop. Need I mention that early morning in January in Iceland is cold and dark? Also closed. Absolutely nothing is open in Reykjavik in winter at 6:30 a.m, and the streets looked like Mardi Gras had just passed through.
Actually Dunkin Donuts was open, but I would rather freeze and starve in the dark than make doughnuts my first meal of our Once-in-a-lifetime Travel Adventure.😄 Finally we found a coffee shop that would open soon; 7:30 couldn’t come quickly enough.
Iceland Travel Tips: “We found food in Iceland to be expensive, even locally produced food.”
Iceland Travel Tips: “…get a reusable bottle and fill it everywhere for free.”
Two breakfast sandwiches, a tea, and a bottomless coffee with slow wifi was our oasis for the next few hours at the price of $CAD43.95. As forewarned, we found food in Iceland to be expensive, even locally produced food. Actually everything is expensive except for power, water and hot dogs. Iceland pipes glacier water right to the faucet so get a reusable bottle and fill it everywhere for free.
Iceland Travel Tips: “…your flight will probably arrive in the early morning…and your hotel room won’t be available for hours, so we suggest you book that morning at The Blue Lagoon spa…to relax, shower, and eat while waiting for your room…”
If you are flying from North America to Iceland your flight will probably arrive in the early morning, as ours did. We suggest you book that morning at The Blue Lagoon spa, which is not far from the airport. That gives you the opportunity to relax, shower, and eat while waiting for your room to become available. We will certainly try this next time. Lagoon Car Rental, the family-owned rental company that we used, has an office at the Keflavik airport. Reykjavik Excursions also runs tours to the Blue Lagoon from Keflavik airport.
Iceland is a small island of 103,000 square kilometres (two Nova Scotias) located in the Atlantic Ocean near the Arctic Circle, with a population of approximately 350,000 people. University education is free and the population is highly educated. Icelandic is the first language; a second Scandinavian language plus English are taught in school. Almost 90% of Iceland’s energy comes from sustainable sources: geothermally heated water, which is piped to radiators and faucets across the country, wind, and hydro.
Tourism has been growing quickly over the last five years and the country is building infrastructure to support it – which was neither unsightly nor inconveniencing. The locals were polite, helpful, and welcoming. They are very proud of their roots, culture, and language which still has much of its old Nordic roots. They are happy to tell their traditional stories, share their food, and show off the natural majesty of the country; but they don’t try to teach you the language, which is nearly unpronounceable to Westerners – partly because they have 10 letters in additional to the Latin alphabet plus accents. And those streets are spotless by 10:00 a.m.
Iceland Travel Tips: “…a summary of our Iceland logistics is located at the bottom of this post.”
Below are the highlights of our adventure, and a summary of our Iceland logistics is located at the bottom of this post. Then be sure to visit our photo gallery Iceland in Winter – 24 Photos to Inspire your Visit for more photos and stories.
Reykjavik, Iceland
Free Reykjavik Walking Tour
Iceland Travel Tips: “Reykjavik Walking Tour…was an interesting…introduction to the city.”
Reykjavik Walking Tour with a local guide through the downtown and old city of Reykjavik was an interesting, if not entirely accurate (no, most Icelanders do not believe in elves) introduction to the city. Wear good walking shoes. Pay by donation.
We don’t remember the significance of the three stones in Austurvollur Square. There is also a statue of Jón Sigurðsson, the leader of Iceland’s independence movement. The square has become the preferred location of protests in Iceland because the square is located near the Parliament Building.
Hallgrímskirkja, or “Hallgrimur’s Church”, in Reykjavik, Iceland, is one of the tallest buildings in the city. It is meant to resemble the basalt formations found on Iceland’s shores. The best known ones are on Reynisfjara Beach, near Vik.
The Harpa Concert Hall is also a convention centre and the departure point for many of the tours. The steel-frame structure and the polygon-shaped glass panels are meant to resemble the basalt formations throughout Iceland.
Reykjavik Food Walk
Iceland Travel Tips: Our guide for the Reykjavik Food Tour…escorted a group of us to several local food stops…We highly recommend this tour…”
Our guide for the Reykjavik Food Tour was “K” (as he suggested we call him because his name is unpronounceable to non-Scandinavians). K is a foodie and intellectual who enthusiastically escorted a group of us to several local food stops: a gourmet food purveyor, hot dog stand, seafood dive, ice cream shop, and fine dining restaurant for samples of 13 traditional Icelandic dishes still regularly enjoyed today. Our first stop was at the gourmet food shop where we sampled several meats and cheeses. Rick was adventurous and tried everything; I didn’t work up the nerve to try horse meat. Cheese making is a new skill in Iceland and in my opinion has a ways to go.
Iceland Travel Tips: The lamb hot dog is an Icelandic tradition…it is available at many convenience stores and gas stations throughout the country; it is seen by many as a cheap eats solution.
Our next stop was at the original, famous Icelandic hotdog stand near the waterfront. Baejarins Beztu Pylsur has been in business since 1937. New construction is going up around it, but the stand is still there. The lamb hot dog is an Icelandic tradition; it is available at many convenience stores and gas stations throughout the country; it is a cheap eats solution. The meat is a mixture of lamb and a little beef and pork, all of it organic. When you ask for the works you get raw onions, crisp-fried onions, ketchup, sweet brown mustard and remoulade, a sauce made with mayo, capers and mustard. The hotdog did not impress Rick.
Iceland Travel Tips: I tried Kjötsúpa (lamb soup) which was delicious and nutritious, becoming my own cheap eats solution…”
At Cafè Loki, near Hallgrímskirkja, I tried Kjötsúpa (lamb soup) which was delicious and nutritious, becoming my own cheap eats solution as it is served all over Iceland, often bottomless with bread. It was followed by unique and surprisingly tasty item; rye bread ice cream.
Iceland Travel Tips: We also tried Lobster soup at the…Seabaron fish store – pretty tasty.”
We also tried Lobster soup at the hole-on-the-dock Seabaron fish store – pretty tasty. Then there was Skyr, a tasty yogurt like food available on many breakfast menus, and we finished our tour with a rich chocolate and mango dessert at a fine restaurant. We highly recommend this tour but wear good walking shoes and book in advance.
As we meandered through the city streets, K pointed out toy figures, adventure heroes and army men set up on signs. This is the de-facto National Army because Iceland doesn’t have a military.
Action Figures placed throughout Reykjavik.
Græna Herbergið / The Green Room
Wow, what a great peek into Icelandic culture! The owners of this small bar are three musicians who often play piano and sing. We lucked into one of those nights. The place was packed with locals on a weeknight till 1:00 a.m. closing time. They played English pop, some movie themes (it’s said, Icelanders watch more movies than anyone), Icelandic pop, and local favourites. As the music switched to Icelandic, the crowd stood and began belting out the tunes.
We tried a few fab cocktails with unknown ingredients. When we pointed out that we didn’t get charged for all of our drinks we were rewarded with happy hour pricing for “our honesty”. We highly recommend this spot for cocktails, entertainment, and people watching. Wear black and be prepared to stand until a seat becomes available. (25/10/2019 Update: According to Trip Advisor, Græna Herbergið has closed, Too bad!)
Beer & Pubs
Iceland Travel Tips: Sküli Craft Bar had a good selection of brew but not much offering of wine.
Our food guide K recommended two beer pubs. Sküli Craft Bar had a good selection of brew but not much offering of wine. Rick enjoyed his Borg Surtur 47 Coffee Imperial Stout in this quiet spot with a few tables of locals and one other tourist couple.
Iceland Travel Tips: “…at Micro Bar…Rick enjoyed more than a few selections…”
A few nights later, we showed up at Micro Bar before it opened and waited on a comfy leather couch while Rick studied the menu refining his tasting list. We picked a nice table near the bar which turned out to be between an English & Scottish couple named Karen & Ian and an American couple. We all chatted with through the evening. Karen and I are now Facebook friends. Rick enjoyed more than a few selections here. Sorry, he doesn’t remember what they were, and he can’t look them up now because the selections vary.
Museums
Iceland Travel Tips: “Landnamssyningin…is an interesting exhibit of Iceland’s Viking history…”
Landnamssyningin / The Settlement Exhibition is an interesting exhibit of Iceland’s Viking history and built around the recently unearthed Viking longhouse from 871 (plus or minus 2 years.) It takes about an hour to peruse the whole museum. A good bet.
The Reykjavik Museum of Photography was free and still not worth it. I saw one interesting photo of a girl playing chess with a puffin.
We did not see The Icelandic Phallological Museum, aka the Penis Museum, even though we saw a giant vagina in City Hall. Rick just didn’t see why anyone would want to see the 15 penises of The Icelandic National Handball team cast in silver.
Aurora Borealis
Iceland Travel Tips: “We booked Northern Lights Deluxe Minibus Tour…early in our trip because you can keep re-booking until you get a sighting.”
We booked Northern Lights Deluxe Minibus Tour thinking that they would know the sweet spots to find the best views. The skies must be clear and there must be sufficient geomagnetic activity to see the lights. Sightings vary from night to night, and from locale to locale. We booked the tour early in our trip because you can keep re-booking until you get a sighting. The first couple of nights we went out on the tour it was too cloudy.
Iceland Travel Tips: “To photograph the Aurora Borealis, dress warmly because you will be standing around a lot, and bring a tripod and a red, green, or blue flashlight/headlamp to protect your night vision while setting the camera.”
After we moved from Reykjavik to a cabin on the Golden Circle there was a forecast for good Northern Light sightings. so we made the three hour drive back to Reykjavik to get on a bus to leave the city to look for the lights. We did eventually see them but as I was gazing up I asked “uh, what are we looking for”. Turns out that opportunities to see “great” Aurora Borealis by the naked eye happen infrequently. Some of the amazing photos you see are the result of clever photographic techniques. I was disappointed but Rick did get one photo of the northern lights using his brand new camera. Dress warmly because you will be standing around a lot, and bring a tripod and a red, green, or blue flashlight/headlamp to protect your night vision while setting the camera.
As we returned to Reykjavik, a heavy snow storm moved in which made the roads unnavigable and our GPS confused. Although we missed spending the night at our beautiful log cabin; we thankfully found a nearby basic hotel with availability. Winter weather in Iceland is unpredictable.
Iceland Travel Tips: Aurora Borealis forecasts by geographic locations can be found online or using the “My Aurora Forecast” app. Our experience with them was not great.
Rick continued to look for Northern Lights each night during our trip. On our last night he ventured out in a suburban neighbourhood in Keflavik and was treated to an exciting display which resulted in these fab photos.
Iceland Countryside
Viking Horse Tour
Iceland Travel Tips: “Viking Horse Tours…was my second favourite activity of the trip, after…”
On route to Golden Circle, we made a detour to Viking Horse Tours, located on the southeast side of Reykjavik (not to be confused with similarly named outfit on the opposite side of town). Iceland loves and protects their Icelandic horses; no other breed of horse is permitted in the country and laws require that every horse be given a three month vacation on the range every year. These gentle souls are a stout and hardy breed with two additional gates compared to other horses and become furry in winter to protect them from the elements.
The rainy, overcast windy 3 degree day didn’t put a damper on our experience. We geared up with provided rain ware, met our steed and saddled up. Because of our delay (which they graciously accommodated) we were alone with our guide, the horses, and the outdoors. This was Rick’s first time on a horse and “Blazey” treated him well. Our hour + ride through horse specific backcountry trails included history about the area.
Afterwards we were hosted by the young couple who owned the business in their airy above-stable apartment for a light Icelandic lunch. They had a bitch “farm-dog” which had just had puppies. They told us that dog ownership is not all that common in Iceland, and true enough we didn’t often see dogs. This outing was my second favourite activity of the trip, after the ice caves.
The Golden Circle, Iceland
There are two scenic drives in Iceland: Ring Road and Golden Circle. The Ring Road lives up to its name and encircles the entire island near the water. It takes about 28 hours to drive non-stop in perfect conditions. Tourists often take a week during summer to see the highlights and camp or stay in hostels along the way. The Golden Circle, our selected route, is a 300km ring east of Reykjavik which includes geysers, waterfalls, hot springs and Pingvellir National Park.
Fontana Hot Springs
Iceland Travel Tips: “Bring your swimsuit to Iceland!”
Iceland Travel Tips: “Fontana Hot Springs…was a relaxing oasis on a cold, starry night.”
When we were visiting with Viking Horse Tours we mentioned that we might be sore from our ride. They suggested that we go to one of the local hot springs on the way to Golden Circle. (Who knew that it’s a good idea to have your swimsuit handy in Iceland!) They suggested either Secret Lagoon or Fontana Hot Springs. We opted for Fontana Hot Springs in Laugarvatn because it was on our route. The hot springs had several pools of different depths and temperature and a group of three steam rooms above the actual spring which you could hear bubbling. It was a relaxing oasis in the cold under a starry night. There is a fresh cafe where they served meals and snacks. Towels were available for rent but sandals were not.
VRBO Cabin
Iceland Travel Tips: “In Golden Circle, we stayed at a quaint log cabin in a secluded valley…equipped with an outdoor hot tub…”
In Golden Circle, we stayed at a quaint log cabin in a secluded valley which we wouldn’t have found at night without GPS and Rick’s strong navigational instincts. If left up to (directionally-challenged) me, we would have spent the night in the car in a ditch. Although there are a few other log cabins and a farm nearby, we seemed to have the valley to ourselves. The cabin was a comfortably furnished three bedroom house with large windows streaming in vast views. It was also equipped with an outdoor hot tub which would have been relaxing but…the last earthquake disrupted the geothermal patterns and the water doesn’t get quite hot enough anymore – at least for me. The geysers were close by so that was our first stop after a brisk quiet walk along the deserted gravel roads.
Geysir
The English word geyser came from the original Geysir, the exploding geothermal spout in Iceland. As with most geysers, Geysir was energized by an active volcano, but it has been largely dormant since 1916. Since then, Geysir has had only a few brief periods of natural activity; there have been a few occasions of man-induced eruptions, as well. Happily, Strokkur is only a few metres away and erupts frequently, about every 10-15 minutes, spouting a blast of water and steam, sometimes with a double spouting. Rick spent some effort getting his timing right for the video below, without other tourists walking across the frame. 😡
Strokker Fountain Geyser erupting.
Gullfoss
Gullfoss waterfall is near Geysir. The visitor centre is situated above the falls looking over. It was a pretty setting but pales compared to Skogafoss. The paths were icy and crampons would have been helpful. Watching tourists climb over the railings to get to the edge for the best photo ops caused me some distress; but thankfully everyone made it back to the trail.
The Secret Lagoon
Iceland Travel Tips: “The Secret Lagoon…the oldest, natural, hot springs in Iceland…was our favourite of the three we visited because…”
The unused hot tub was not a problem because we took an evening trip to The Secret Lagoon which is one large pool in a natural setting surrounded by scalding hot springs. They claim to be the oldest, natural, hot springs in Iceland. We were able to buy wine and beer to drink in the pool.
This hot springs was our favourite of the three we visited because it was not crowded, it was inexpensive, and it was in a relaxing, natural setting.
Thingvellir National Park
Thingvellir National Park (known with various spellings because there is no exact English translation) is a historic national centre where many celebrations are still held today. It is on the boundary between the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. As the two plates move apart they create between them a “new” valley that has developed several rifts over the centuries. The park is also where the ancient Icelandic tribes met each summer, held a congress, and a court to settle disputes. Alþingi, established in 930 AD, is said to be the first and oldest nationally elected parliament in the world.
Walkways and bridges in the rift valley provide access to points overlooking Thingvallavatin lake,Þingvallakirkja (a historic church), and several fissures. In winter walking can be treacherous because, as elsewhere across Iceland, the road and pathways are not salted or sanded. Crampons would be useful.
The edge of the North American tectonic plate looks like a cliff face rising out of the ground in this part of Thingvellir National Park. Many years ago, a rift formed along the cliff face during an earthquake and the cliff face collapsed, forming a pile of rocks along the length of the “new” cliff face. As the rift valley continued to widen, the North American plate moved away from the pile of rocks, creating a small gorge between the cliff face and the rocks. That gorge is called the Almannagjá gorge. There is now a footpath running along parts of the gorge.Almannagjá translates to English as “public gap”.
Drekkingarhylur is one of the smaller waterfalls in Thingvellir National Park. This falls is located along Almannagjá Gorge, not far from the Thingvellir Visitor Centre. The water flows off of the North American Plate and onto the rift valley. Drekkingarhylur means “drowning pool”. When capital punishment was imposed on Icelanders by the Danes in the 1600s,Drekkingarhylur was used to drown women convicted of capital crimes, such as adultery and incest. At other locations in the park, convicted men were put to death by other means, like burning, decapitation, or hanging. Not a proud part of Icelandic history.
Iceland Travel Tips: “Plan to spend at least a whole day in Thingvellir National Park. Tours of the park are available.”
We arrived at Thingvellir National Park too late in the day for the many other fascinating sites and activities in the park, including Peningagjá (the money gap), Öxarárfoss, and The Silfra Fissure. The park is very spread out. Plan to spend a whole day in Thingvellir National Park. The park is a 45 minute drive from Reykjavik. Tours of the park are available.
Iceland Travel Tips: “The Silfra Fissure is particularly popular among snorkellers and scuba divers…tours are available year round.”
One of the most unique activities inThingvellir National Park is at the Silfra Fissure, a submerged fissure fed by a glacial spring. The water is always around freezing temperature and visibility in the water is up to 100 metres. The constant feed from the spring keeps the water from actually freezing. The Silfra Fissure is particularly popular among snorkellers and scuba divers. Snorkelling and scuba tours are available year round.
Glacier and Ice Caves, Iceland
Vatnajökull Glacier
Iceland Travel Tips: “Ice Cave Tour by Vatnajökull Glacier was the absolute highlight of our trip…”
The Ice Cave Tour by Vatnajökull Glacier was the absolute highlight of our trip and was worth a 5 am departure from our guest house. We met our group of 10 or so at a highway convenience store where several similar tours were organizing. There was a sense of excitement in the air. We loaded on every layer of clothing we had, anticipating that ice caves are cold, loaded into a huge 4×4 van, and began to sweat. We headed up the highway a few kilometres, pulled off the road onto a snowy lane and drove for another twenty minutes. The driver got out and let air out of our oversized tires in preparation for driving on the glacier. The ride was rough and the sights were awesome. We were on Vatnajökull Glacier!
Actually there is only one huge glacier in the area and it is called Vatnajökull Glacier. But the guides have named different sections of the glacier to make navigation and communication simpler. Since we were adjacent to Jökulsárlón Lagoon, the guides named this section Jökulsárlón Glacier.
We fell out of the van into a frigid wind that made us grateful for our layers. We then kitted out with crampons and safety helmets. It is hard to get crampons on your boots when you are too layered up to bend over – but nevertheless, we managed. They gave us a brief lesson in glacier walking, which involves heavy marching so that the crampons sink into the ice. We followed the guide towards the entrance of the ice cave. We could see through clear bluish endless ice under our feet as we were batted around by the wind on the curved ice. I marched like my life depended on it as I saw someone’s smart phone slide by me. The Asian tourist chasing the phone followed none of the marching rules and didn’t go over the side; so perhaps my trepidation was overdone.
Jökulsárlón Ice Cave
There was a narrow path through thick snow towards the entrance of Jökulsárlón Ice Cave. The guides had used ice picks to enlarge the opening to make it easy to enter. I’d walked into Superman’s ice fortress crowded with tourists. It was beautiful, and not so cold, just above freezing. The ice appears blue because the weight of the glacier forces air out making the ice denser. Tours of the ice caves are only available in winter. After an hour or so, it was time to take our last photo and return to the surface.
On the way back to the highway, the driver stopped at the edge of the glacier to allow us to get out for more photos of the glacier while he re-inflated the tires. Back at the convenience store was another opportunity to wander around taking some of our favourite photos of Iceland. Please don’t forget to visit our photo gallery Iceland in Winter – 24 Photos to Inspire your Visit for more photos and stories.
Lagoon & Black Beaches, Iceland
Jökulsárlón Lagoon
After the glacier and ice cave excursion, we visited Jökulsárlón Lagoon. As the glacier slowly melts, water flows from it forming a lagoon. Large pieces of ice break off the glacier and into the lagoon. Thechunks of ice jam together in the lagoon, trying to make their way through a small outlet and into the North Atlantic Ocean.
Diamond Beach
These mini icebergs float out to the ocean, and then get washed back onto the nearby black sand beach by waves and tides. The beach is strewn with ice chunks that slowly erode in the waves and sun forming unusual and beautiful shapes. When the sun shines on the beach, it is easy to see how it became known as Diamond Beach. Plan to spend some time roaming the beach amongst these ice diamonds – your imagination will see amazing things.
Basalt Columns
We explored the black sand beaches on the south coast, near Vik, in search of the famous Basalt Columns. We first tried approaching from Black Sand Beach (logical) but encountered blustery winds, fog, and sleet so heavy we couldn’t see anything.
So we jumped back in the car and drove west about 3 km through a small mountain pass, and the skies cleared. We found another approach to the Basalt Columns from Reynisfjara Beach. From here we could see the Basalt Columns, looming like phantoms of the sea.
Reynisfjara Beach was bordered by a cliff that provided a barrier from the storm at Black Sand Beach. Cut into the cliff is Hálsanefshellir Cave with walls of geometric shapes that could have inspired some modern art pieces I’ve seen. The hexagonal pillars that make up the walls of the cave are formed when basalt lava cools over time. These shapes did inspire the polygon-shaped glass panels on the Harpa Concert Hall in Reykjavik.
Protection from the storm was only temporary as the sleet moved onto this beach too. We had to fight our way against the weather back to the car, so we took a break at Black Beach Restaurant, a nice cafeteria there that had good soup and sandwiches and watery hot chocolate.
Warning to would-be summer swimmers, this beach has dangerous currents which have taken the lives of a number of swimmers. Update: They closed access toReynisfjara Beach early in 2018 for an unspecified period of time due to unsafe conditions.
The Contest
Along this drive we also had a “who did it better” photo challenge. I saw a quaint church along the road and asked Rick to stop to take a photo. He bundled up and stood out in the cold to get the perfect photo with his fancy camera. I sat in the warm car, rolled down the window, stuck my smart phone out the window and snapped the same photo from the comfort of the car. So who did it better? Well, Rick. Who did it “smarter”; Deb of course. That’s why they call it a “Smart Phone”; and also why he calls me a “Smart Ass”.
Skogafoss
Iceland Travel Tips: “…you are almost sure to see Skogafoss with a beautiful rainbow if you arrive on a sunny day.”
Even in winter, when Skogafoss‘ flow is a quarter of Summer and Spring’s volume, this waterfall is breathtaking. We were lucky enough to see Skogafoss when the sun was shining and the rays through the waterfall’s mist produced a bright rainbow. Because Skogafoss faces directly south, you are almost sure to see Skogafoss with a beautiful rainbow if you arrive on a sunny day. Skogafoss is a 60 metre waterfall over a sheer, rocky cliff which is the former southern coastline of Iceland. The new shoreline, which is below the waterfall, came from volcanic lava flows over the years.
We also took the stairs beside the falls to get a birds eye view. The second photo above is from a ledge mid-way up the stairs. As I’ve mentioned before, sidewalks, paths and stairs are not serviced. The ledge was just that, an icy narrow uneven ledge on the side of the cliff and not an engineered overlook. I do not recommend going out on the ledge, especially in winter, unless you have the balance, agility, and sense of a mountain goat. I wouldn’t have done it had I known, but there was no turning around once started. I’ll let you make your own judgement about how much sense we have.
By the way, there is a local competition among herders for rescuing goats from precarious ledges!
The Troll and Treasure of Skogafoss
Iceland Travel Tips: …there is a legend of a treasure and a troll attached to Skogafoss.”
After our trip to Iceland, we read there is a legend of a treasure and a troll attached to Skogafoss. The troll is a rock formation that you can see from the ledge half way up the waterfall, if you dare to go far enough out on the ledge. Another example of the mystical creatures that fill Icelandic lore.
The treasure chest is behind the waterfall, according to the legend.
Regína Hrönn Ragnarsdóttir writes: “Þrasi Þórólfsson, the Viking Settler at Skógar (Eystriskógar) in around 900, hid the chest and it is said that the first man who goes there will find great treasures.”
https://guidetoiceland.is/connect-with-locals/regina/the-beautiful-skogafoss-waterfall-and-the-legend-of-the-treasure-chest?a=135
Rick wishes he had known about the troll when we were there so he could have taken the troll’s picture. I wish we had known about the treasure so Rick could have searched for it. If you decide to venture out onto the ledge to see the troll, please remember our warning about the icy conditions on the ledge, particularly in winter.
Rick’s contribution to Icelandic lore is that the troll is guarding the treasure. Let’s see if the locals add that to the legend. 😁
Seljalandsfoss, Iceland
Iceland Travel Tips: “Plan to arrive early enough to go behind the falls and to visit Gljúfrabúi waterfall, the nearby hidden gem at Hamragarðar.”
Seljalandsfoss, that waterfall made famous by photos taken from a cavern behind the falls, is a 60 metre (200 feet) waterfalls on the Ring Road in Southern Iceland. The falls source is the glacier Eyjafjallajökull, which covers a volcano that erupted in 2010. We arrived at the falls at dusk, and the failing light and freezing mist made the path behind the falls too treacherous to venture. The odd shadow line that you see near the bottom of the falls is caused by the floodlights that light up the area at night for safety. Plan to arrive early enough to go behind the falls and to visit Gljúfrabúi waterfall, the nearby hidden gem at Hamragarðar.
Blue Lagoon, Iceland
Blue Lagoon is a man-made resort and spa which bills itself as one of the 25 Wonders of the World. The 9 million litre pool, nestled in a lava field, is covered with a smooth white finish and is surrounded by walkways, spa buildings, and peaks of lava hills.
Iceland Travel Tips: “Several packages are available, but unless you are opting for one of the high end packages, bring your own towel and flip flops.”
The water in The Blue Lagoon is actually waste water from the nearby geothermal power plant, Svartsengi. The water is clean and naturally instilled with silica, algae, and minerals which give the water its soft blue colour and its health benefits. While relaxing in the pool, you can stop by the facial bar and treat yourself with a complementary silica mask and purchase additional treatments. There is also a waterfall, steam rooms, and a swim-up bar where you can purchase a healthful beverage or something more indulgent. Since their helpful website warns to stay hydrated, I tried a green veggie smoothy which was surprisingly tasty. The website also says to use conditioner before entering the pool to protect your hair; despite precautions, my hair was dry for weeks.
Iceland Travel Tips: “We opted to indulge in floating in-water massages – a unique and relaxing experience.”
Several packages are available, but unless you are opting for one of the high end packages, bring your own towel and flip flops. We opted to indulge in floating in-water massages – a unique and relaxing experience. There are excellent facilities with nice change rooms, secure lockers, luggage store, etc. There is a choice of restaurants, including a moderately priced cafe for snacks and refreshments. I was also happy to learn that the pool is accessible for those who use a wheelchair.
Despite Blue Lagoon’s very efficient operation, the 3,500+ guests per day makes this feel as I imagine a large cruise ship would (not ever having been on one.) If you are able to venture further afield and you prefer a quieter setting or a more natural environment, Fontana in Laugarvatn or The Secret Garden in Fudir would be better options. They are both significantly less expensive, as well.
Iceland Travel Tips Summary
Weather
It is not as cold as you might think in Reykjavik, on The Golden Circle and on the ring road along the south shore of Iceland. The weather is moderate in the areas of Iceland that are near the ocean and the Gulf Stream. But there are still heavy snowstorms and blizzards in winter. Winter clothes are a must. The ring road across the top of Iceland is colder in winter, and not many places are open for business.
Airport Transport
We took an airport bus from the airport in Keflavik to the bus station in downtown Reykjavik where we picked up a local taxi to take us to our hotel. At most times of the day, you could take a city bus to a downtown hotel.
Rental Car
If you stay in downtown Reykjavik, a car is not necessary. You can book coach tours from Reykjavik for most of the places we went. You can even arrange for a stop over at Blue Lagoon on you way to or from the airport.
If you rent a car during winter or fringe Spring or Fall, be sure to get all wheel or four wheel drive with winter tires which may not be available at the standard North American chains. We booked a Subaru Forester with Lagoon Rental Car, picked it up in the city on our way out and dropped it off at the airport a few days later. The Forester, a true all-wheel drive SUV, was a great choice; we passed several cars left abandoned in ditches. Beware that Google Maps doesn’t have the exact location of the Lagoon airport car return centre; so get specific directions and allow extra time.
Accommodations
Holt Hotel in downtown Reykjavik: A nice, conveniently located hotel with breakfast included.
VRBO Log Cabin on The Golden Circle
Restaurants and Pubs
We didn’t have a lot of luck with restaurants. Most were average and expensive. It was hard to find a restaurant outside of Reykjavik that was open in winter. So when we saw something, we grabbed it gratefully. Once again, I suggest soup, everywhere. And, of course, Icelandic hotdogs are available in gas stations.
Græna Herbergið (25/10/2019 Update: Apparently closed now.)
Kaffi Krus in Selfoss
Activities
Blue Lagoon Bring your swimsuit to Iceland, even in winter.
Diamond Beach
Fontana Hot Springs Again, your swimsuit.
Geysir and Strokkur
Ice Cave Tour by Vatnajökull Glacier
Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon
Landnamssyningin / The Settlement Exhibition
Northern Lights Deluxe Minibus Tour
Reynisfjara Beach and Basalt Columns
Seljalandsfoss
The Secret Lagoon Don’t forget that swimsuit.
Skogafoss
Dressed for Venice Carnevale.
ConsIder the new Sky Lagoon, a geothermal spa only 5 km outside Reykjavik.
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