Loving Life in Morocco: The Medina of Marrakech
November 25, 2018
When Deb and I planned our long-term travel adventure we talked about Kenya, Iceland, Japan, Southeast Asia, New Zealand, Europe, but we didn’t mention Morocco. Morocco has intrigued me ever since I first saw Casablanca, one of my favourite movies. What’s not to like about Bogie and Ingrid, right? But going to Morocco, and in particular the Medina of Marrakech, was not high on my travel bucket list. Well…
Welcome to The Medina of Marrakech, the first in a series of posts on our adventure in Morocco. This post covers things to do in Marrakech. The series will also cover our travels Among the Imazighen (Berbers), our Overnight in the Sahara Desert, and our stays in Fez and Chefchaouen, the Blue Pearl of Morocco.
Click on the photos in each section below to see them all full size and to read the stories behind them.
This post is one of a series of posts about our adventures in Morocco. Click on Travel Morocco for more about Morocco, including our hilarious experience of getting rubbed and scrubbed in an authentic Moroccan hammam. It was not a tourist hammam.
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Background
Marrakech is a former imperial city and popular tourist destination in the middle of Morocco, just northwest of the snow-capped High Atlas mountains. It is a popular destination for its huge medina, palaces, monuments, and gardens. Cultural influences come from the Berber farmers who have lived in the area for millennia, the Arabic people who spread across north Africa, and France who made Morocco a protectorate early in the 20th century. Many Moroccans still speak French, so Deb’s French-Canadian upbringing and minor in French Lit. came in handy.
The people of Morocco generally do not drink alcohol, so we did not see much of it around. It was offered in some locations, mostly to tourists, but we chose not to drink any out of respect for the local people and their culture.
The areas of Morocco we visited are not strict about visitors following Moroccan customs and religious practices. Deb did not have to cover her head or face in any way.
Getting to Marrakech
We began our Moroccan adventure on a ferry from Tarifa, Spain. We wanted to travel light because we booked a camelback excursion into the Sahara Desert, including an overnight bivouac, so we left most of our electronics and our excess luggage at a hotel in Spain. Good plan. But the trip didn’t start out so well. Click on the photos for more.
I admit it. I was sceptical about including Morocco on our multi-year travel adventure. After all, I am the \\\\\\\'4 star or better guy\\\\\\\', and I wasn\\\\\\\'t sure we would find that throughout Morocco. I felt vindicated as we approached Tangier on the ferry from Spain. I have not doctored this photo. It is a colour photo. Gloomy. But I was in for a very pleasant surprise, and a wonderful adventure to Marrakech, the Sahara Desert, Fez, and Chefchaouen.Arriving by Ferry from Spain to Tangier, Morocco, 2017.
The Tangier Train Station was clean and modern. It gave us a false sense of security for our train ride to Marrakech. It definitely was NOT the Marrakech Express. Marrakech is 5.5 hour drive from Tangier, but we took the overnight train-from-hell to Marrakech. The train was old and slow, and all the toilets on our car were plugged and backed up. The cabin was okay, but it was hot because only one small window opened.Tangier Train Station, Morocco, 2017.
Staying at a Riad
To immerse yourself in the local culture of Marrakech consider staying at a riad in the medina. Click on the photos for more.
Our taxi from the Marrakech train station dropped us off on the outer edge of the medina near the riad we booked. A medina is the old part of a town or city, while a riad is a Moroccan house or palace. Many of the riads have been converted to boutique hotels. The riad arranged for a staff member to meet us and escort us to the riad. Definitely a must your first time there. It is soooo easy to get lost in the maze that makes up the huge Medina of Marrakech. Every corner and every street and alley looks the same, and signs get missed in the visual clutter. And if you look at all lost, children and adults will quickly offer to help you, but they will expect to be paid. If you do take up their offer, haggle the price down or you will not get rid of them. We were warned that the locals see tourists as walking purses. During a rare break in the crowds, probably created by me, I managed to snap this quick picture inside the medina while rolling my suitcase.Fighting Through the Crowds in the Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
Riad Le Coq Berbère Fou, like most riads, is down an alley illuminated by a single light, and through a single, plain-looking door. We were glad we had an escort.The Entrance to the Riad Le Coq Berbère Fou in the Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
A riad is a quiet, pleasant oasis in the midst of the Medina of Marrakech hustle and bustle. It is a traditional Moroccan house or palace with a courtyard or garden within. The riad is hidden from the outside, except for a plain entrance. The windows and doors of all the rooms face the inside courtyard or garden. Tastefully decorated and very relaxing, we felt at home at Riad Le Coq Beberé Fou.The Central Courtyard of the Riad Le Coq Berbère Fou in the Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
Our room in the Riad Le Coq Berbère Fou was simple, small and comfortable with typical Moroccan decor.Our Room in the Riad Le Coq Berbère Fou in the Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
Our bathroom in the Riad Le Coq Berbère Fou was simple and probably original, except for the plumbing and wiring. It had the precursor to the modern-day capsule shower. (:Our Bathroom in the Riad Le Coq Berbère Fou, Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
The typical breakfast, which is served in a private room of the Riad Le Coq Berbère Fou, was a nice mix of local foods, including bread, pancakes, lemon cake, yogurt, jams, cheese, orange juice and fried briouats. Briouats are filled with meat, seafood or honey and almonds (as were these). I don’t know if they customized breakfast for us, but the coffee was North American style, instead of the traditional mint tea. Yes!!Breakfast at the Riad Le Coq Berbère Fou, Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
The rooftop terrace of Riad Le Coq Berbère Fou is a lovely place to relax, and the service is great!The Rooftop Terrace of the Riad Le Coq Berbère Fou, Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
I agreed to take a picture of one of the staff at Riad Le Coq Berbère and email it to him. He provided excellent service to us. Unfortunately I lost his email address and now I have forgotten his name too.One of the Staff of the Riad Le Coq Berbère Fou, Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
Except for the minarets of the mosques and a few palm trees, there is no real skyline in Marrakesh. The law is that the view of the minarets cannot be obscured. This picture is from the rooftop terrace of the Riad Le Coq Bebère Fou.The Skyline of Marrakech from the Riad Le Coq Berbère Fou, Morocco, 2017.
The Medina of Marrakech
A medina is the old part of any city or town in Morocco. Independent vendors and craftsmen have set up shop in the medina to sell goods and services for hundreds of years. In our opinion, the medina is the #1 attraction in Marrakech. Some of the vendors sell tongue-in-cheek, but that is part of the fun, separating the wheat from the chaff. Gradually, vendors are supplanting the local craftsmen with mass-produced products for tourists. It isn’t so much fun when it says ‘Made in China’. We recommend hiring a highly-rated guide for your first visit because you can get lost very easily in the medina maze. Click on the photos for more.
The riad arranged for a private walking tour of the medina. The Medina of Marrakech is a fascinating place, full of colour. But perhaps even more colourful was our guide. He talked about the Marrakech way of life, how it is safe and relatively crime-free, and how the people are respectful of one another. Everyone in the medina seemed to know and respect him, particularly the children. He has two children of his own attending European Universities, one studying to be a doctor and the other an engineer. He is a berber, and he has a home somewhere in the mountains of Morocco. But he often stays in Marrakech to work. He confided in us that when he is at home in the mountains he lives the pious, vice-free life of a berber. But when he is in Marrakesh, he is just like everyone else. I do not know what he meant by that, since they generally do not drink alcohol in Marrakech.A Crowded, Colourful, Pedestrian Street in the Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
Our riad arranged for a private walking tour of the Medina of Marrakech. The tour started with our first lunch out in the medina. It was a nice restaurant with a rooftop terrace. Traditional tagine cooking makes the food moist and flavourful, which is good because tagine dishes were a staple on our trip to Morocco.Chicken Tagine at a Restaurant in the Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
Deb had a tagine beef dish; I had tagine chicken.Beef Tagine at a Restaurant in the Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
This is the entrance to one of the hammams in the Medina of Marrakech. The hours posted in both French and Arabic say the men get mornings and late evenings, while the women get afternoons and early evenings.The Entrance to a Moroccan Hammam in the Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
One of the stops on the walking tour of the Medina of Marrakech was to see the famous Furnace Man. Located in the furnace room in the back of the hammam, one of his jobs is to stoke the fire that heats the hammam.The Famous Furnace Man in the Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
The famous Furnace Man, who stokes the fire that provides the heat for a hammam in the Medina of Marrakech, also cooks tangia for the hammam. Tangia is both the name of dishes that are slow-cooked in terracotta or clay amphora, and the name of the amphora itself. The amphora is laid on the coals where the dish cooks for hours. You should expect to tip the man, and we did so gladly for the privilege of seeing and photographing him at work.The Famous Furnace Man under a Hammam in the Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
The Medina of Marrakech is partially organized into souks, or markets. There is often a sign marking the entry to a souk. Some souks still specialize, like Souk Des Cuivre (copper), Souk Des Teinturiers (dyers), Souk des Tapis (carpets) and Souk des Babouches (slippers). But many of the souks are being taken over by general merchandisers who sell a variety of mass-produced products, mostly targeted to tourists.Brass and Copper Lanterns Hanging in the Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
Colourful, Berber baskets are a popular item for sale in the Medina of Marrakech.Berber Baskets in the Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
More Berber colour in the Medina of Marrakech.Berber Baskets and Women\\\'s Tote Bags in the Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
Textile products are abundant in the Medina of Marrakech, so this dyer has plenty of yarn on hand. Of course, all the popular colours are there.A Dyer\\\'s Shop in the Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
Cats are omnipresent in the cities and villages of Morocco, and no more so than in the medinas. The vendors in the Medina of Marrakech give the cats water, share their meals with the cats and leave scraps of unsold food at night for the cats. So the cats are well-fed, friendly, and they lounge about the medina. It is expensive to have the cats fixed, so their population is uncontrolled. We were told that the people consider cats spiritual. It is believed that the Prophet Mohammed had cats, including his favoured Muezza, and declared that affection for cats is part of the Islamic faith. Cats are considered clean animals. It is not the same for dogs though. Google \\\'cats in morocco medina\\\'.Cats in the Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
This man is wearing a djellaba, a unisex robe that is typical of Morocco and Northwest Aftica. According to Wikipedia, they come in summer and winter fabrics, and are designed to protect the wearer from heat, wind, cold and sand. Among Berbers, the colour of the robe indicates the marital status of a man.Man Wearing a Djellaba in the Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
In case you thought the vendors of the Medina of Marrakesh were only selling to tourists, here is one of the fine fashion boutiques. Lol; they have husband chairs in Morocco too!A Clothes Merchant in the Medina of Marrakesh, Morocco, 2017.
Tea sets and houkhahs made of finely detailed metal and glass are common in the Medina of Marrakech.Metal and Glass Tea Sets and Houkhahs in the Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
The bakeries in the Medina of Marrakech are communal. The locals mix their own dough in the morning and bring it to the nearest bakery where the baker waits for the dough to rise. Using a long paddle, he then slips the dough into his wood-fired stone oven.A Communal Bakery in the Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
At a communal bakery in the Medina of Marrakesh, the Khobz bread dough is left out to rise before being baked. Somehow the baker remembers whose bread is whose. The owner picks up their bread late in the day to be used in the evening meal.Khobz Bread Dough Rising at the Bakery in the Medina of Marrakesh, Morocco, 2017.
Like all tour guides from India to Morocco, ours took us to his favoured carpet vendor in the Medina of Marrakech where Deb got some hands-on training weaving a carpet. Deb said that after they were done the woman took apart the section Deb did. Good try though sweetie (: We were then directed to the showroom where they served mint tea and laid out carpet after carpet trying to sell us one. They were surprised, disappointed and maybe a bit displeased when we told them we were nomads and we did not have a house.Carpet Weaving in the Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
Herbalists are popular in the Medina of Marrakech and Argan oil is highly sought after by many tourists to relieve joint pain and reduce scaring and wrinkles, The herbalists try to push Argan oil as a cure for many things. We resisted the Argan oil, but I did try an herbal mixture for my seasonal allergies. I had to rub a bit together to release the aroma, and then inhale it deeply. It helped clear my nose for a short while, but nothing like a good 24 hr allergy medicine in North America.A Herbalist in the Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
Jemaa el-Fna is a large public square in the Medina of Marrakech. It is known for its hawkers and entertainers. We were warned to be wary in the square. Deb had heard about a snake being put around the neck of an unsuspecting tourist and the owner demanding payment to remove the snake. Deb would not go near.Jemaa el-Fna in the Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
One of the many food stands in Jemaa el-Fna, the large open square in the Medina of Marrakech.Nuts and Dried Fruits for Sale in Jemaa el-Fna, the Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
This sight in the medina is common only to Jemaa el-Fna, in the Medina of Marrakech. This mule and wagon would not fit in the narrow alleys of the rest of the medina. Transportation In those other souks is by foot, hand cart, bicycle and occasionally motorbike.A Mule and Wagon in the Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
These two camels (dromedaries) were \\\"parked\\\" on a street corner in Marrakech. We think they were used to give rides, but we are not sure. Deb\\\'s sensitivity to animal welfare made her think the standing camel was extremely anxious, as it constantly made a circular pattern in the sand with its hoof.Camels Parked Outside the Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
Medersa Ben Youssef
Medersa Ben Youssef is the former Koranic school of Marrakech. Definitely worth a visit, but we recommend a guided tour so you can fully appreciate the school and its history. Click on the photos for more.
Medersa Ben Youssef is the former Koranic school of Marrakech. It is The Son of Joseph School, having been named after the sultan Ali Ben Youssef. Today, it is a popular museum. According to www.medersa-ben-youssef.com, there are features of the Medersa that are very similar to features found in The Alhambra in Granada, Spain. The website suggests that craftsmen from Andalusia may have been involved in the design of the Medersa. I don’t have enough experience with Arabic architecture and designs to know which features are unique to these two locations. I can say that both locations do feature Arabesque decor, yeseria and zellige ceramic tile patterns. Medina of Marrakech.The Main Courtyard of the Medersa Ben Youssef, Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
Medersa Ben Youssef, the former Koranic school in the Medina of Marrakech, housed up to 900 students, several to a room. The more senior students got the better rooms.Access to the Student Rooms of the Medersa Ben Youssef, Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
The student rooms of Medersa Ben Youssef are small. The rungs in the corner provide access to the upper chamber, which the least senior students had to share for sleeping. Medina of Marrakech.Inside a Student Room of the Medersa Ben Youssef, Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
This is the upper chamber of one of the students’ rooms in the former Koranic school, Medersa Ben Youssef. The room is about 1.5 metres high, perhaps high enough for a young boy to stand in. There was only one small, square window. The room served as sleeping quarters for several students. I cannot imagine how hot and stuffy it must have been during the summer months. Medina of Marrakech.The Upper Chamber of a Student Room in the Medersa Ben Youssef, Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
Here is the view of the Medersa Ben Youssef’s main courtyard from one of the student rooms. These rooms had a Juliet-like balcony with solid wood French doors. Medina of Marrakech.View from a Student Room in the Medersa Ben Youssef, Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
We just had to take advantage of this peek-a-boo window in the Medersa Ben Youssef. I wonder what they called these little doors back then. Medina of Marrakech.A Peek-a-Boo Window at the Medersa Ben Youssef, Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
Bahia Palace
The Bahia Palace is on the southern edge of the medina. The chamberlains of Sultan Hassan I of Morocco built the Palace in the late 1800s. The Palace is a fine display of Moroccan architecture, well worth seeing. We didn’t see a need for a guided tour here, so just Google it. Click on the photos for more.
On our second full day in the Medina we took a tour by car to more remote areas both in and out of the Medina of Marrakech. Our first stop was the Bahia Palace. The front gate to the Bahia Palace is not impressive, nor is it representative of the palace and its grounds. Morocco.The Gate to the Bahia Palace, Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
As a palace in the Medina of Marrakech, Bahia Palace had the family\\\'s quarters, gardens, a mosque, a koranic school, a hammam and several apartments, some of which housed the harem. Today, most of the palace grounds are open for viewing, and used for concerts and art exhibitions. Morocco.Visitors to the Bahia Palace, Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
The central courtyard of the Bahia Palace is big, bright and colourful. The Palace was built in the Medina of Marrakech in the late 1800s by Si Moussa and his son Ahmed ben Moussa, chamberlains of Sultan Hassan I of Morocco. Bahia means \\\'the brilliant\\\' or \\\'the beautiful\\\'. The Palace is believed to be named after a favourite mistress. Our \\\'Western\\\' sensibilities make it difficult for us to imagine a wife living in the same home as her husband\\\'s harem. But experiencing other cultures is what our travels are about.The Main Courtyard of the Bahia Palace, Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
The decor of the Bahia Palace is not all about tile work. Some surfaces, like the ceiling of the cloister that surrounds the main courtyard, are painted. You will notice a similar combination of colours in our photos of Jardin Majorelle. Medina of Marrakech, Morocco.The Ceiling of the Cloister of the Main Courtyard of the Bahia Palace, Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
The tile work on this ceiling in the Bahia Palace, and indeed in many buildings throughout the Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, is amazing. True craftsmanship.A Tiled Ceiling of the Bahia Palace, Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
The windows of the Bahia Palace show amazing craftsmanship, but I am particularly impressed by the segmentation of the petal patterns above this window. Medina of Marrakech, Morocco.A Lattice Window in the Bahia Palace, Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
A quiet moment between father and son is heartwarming to see anywhere. Medina of Marrakech, Morocco.Father and Son in the Bahia Palace, Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
Thousands of tiles decorate this small ceiling in the Bahia Palace, Medina of Marrakech, Morocco.An Tiled Ceiling of the Bahia Palace, Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
Stained glass was incorporated into some of the buildings of the Bahia Palace. According to https://www.palais-bahia.com, it is the first stained glass windows in the Maghreb. It is not surprising that they replicated some of their tile designs in stained glass. Medina of Marrakech, Morocco.Stained Glass in the Bahia Palace, Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
Green light through a stained glass window lights up the centre of a door to interesting effect in the Bahia Palace, Medina of Marrakech, Morocco.Light from a Stained Glass Window in the Bahia Palace, Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
Entire rooms of the Bahia Palace are decorated in small ceramic tiles. Medina of Marrakech, Morocco.A Tiled Room of the Bahia Palace, Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
Saadian Tombs
The Saadian Tombs is a mausoleum dedicated to the Saadi Dynasty of the late 16th century. The architecture and decor are interesting, but very similar to the Medersa and the Bahia Palace. This is the least interesting site we visited in Marrakech. No need for a guided tour. Click on the photos for more.
The Saadian Tombs contain the remains of people from the Saadi Dynasty in the late 16th century, including the sultan\\\'s family. The monuments are made of Italian Carrara marble. Medina of Marrakech, Morocco.The Main Tomb of the Saadian Tombs, Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
There are about 60 graves inside the mausoleum. While the graves are impressive and may be most important to the locals, the mausoleum\\\'s decor was most interesting the us. One thing that stood out was the similarity to the decor in the courtyard of Medersa Ben Yousef. According to www.medersa-ben-youssef.com, it was the Saadians that redecorated the Medersa in 1570. Medina of Marrakech, Morocco.A Small Tomb in the Saadian Tombs, Medina of Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
Jardin Majorelle
Jardin Majorelle is a lovely, botanical garden just outside the medina of Marrakech. The garden showcases hundreds of exotic plant species from around the world. There is no need for a guide, so just take a relaxing stroll though it. But consider visiting the Berber museum that is attached to the gardens. We wish we had. Click on the photos for more.
Jardin Majorelle is a colourful, botanical garden containing water features and exotic plants from around the world, like bamboo, cacti, ferns, etc. Marrakech, Morocco.Water Features and Colourful Exotic Plants Fill Jardin Majorelle in Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
Strolling through Jardin Majorelle and taking pictures is a wonderful way to spend a couple of hours just outside the Medina of Marrakech, Morocco.Picture Taking in Jardin Majorelle, Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
The colour scheme of Jardin Majorelle is blue, yellow and terracotta, along with the greens of the plants, of course. This is the same colour scheme you saw in some of our Bahia Palace photos. Marrakech, Morocco.A Doorway in Jardin Majorelle, Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
Even the fish follow the colour scheme of Jardin Majorelle. Marrakech, Morocco.A Fish Pond in Jardin Majorelle, Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
Jardin Majorelle has many species of cacti from around the world. Marrakech, Morocco.Cacti from Around the World in Jardin Majorelle in Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
The lily pond reflecting the trees of Jardin Majorelle, Marrakech, Morocco.The Lily Pond in Jardin Majorelle, Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
Beautiful bougainvillea contribute to the abundance of shade in Jardin Majorelle, Marrakech, Morocco.Bougainvillea in Jardin Majorelle, Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
Jardin Majorelle also includes a museum of Berber culture, which we regrettably did not enter. Marrakech, Morocco.Lattice Work on a Window of the Berber museum in Jardin Majorelle, Marrakech, Morocco, 2017.
Dressed for Venice Carnevale.