Welcome to the Edinburgh Festivals and the City, the first of a series of posts on our tour of Scotland. Highlights include The Edinburgh Festivals, The City of Edinburgh, Bobby, The Ultra-Loyal Skye Terrier, Harry Potter, and more.
Scotland is part of Rick’s heritage, so our tour of the country had special significance for him.
See the highlights below of the 10 days we spent in Edinburgh. Click on any photo in a section to view them all full size and to read more details.
Then click on Travel Scotland for more stories about our adventures in Scotland, including our tour of the Highlands, the Hebrides, and the abandoned and mysterious St. Kilda Islands, by campervan.
The Pronunciation Police
The first thing you have to remember in Edinburgh is don’t pronounce it “Edinburg”. The locals are quick to correct you with a scowl. There are many websites that differ on the “proper” pronunciation, but “Edinburra” will get you by the pronunciation police. And if you can roll the r’s just a bit, so much the better.
The Edinburgh Festivals in August
Edinburgh is Festival City, and that is no more evident than in August of every year when four, yes four, world-class festivals run in parallel. Edinburgh International Festival provides top performances in dance, opera, music and theatre, while Edinburgh Fringe Festival puts on a huge array of music, theatre, comedy, spoken word, children’s shows, street performers, etc. The much smaller Edinburgh Book Festival brings together writers and readers to listen to and discuss the written word. Edinburgh Art Festival, also smaller, celebrates the visual arts. Fun atmosphere.
We saw several Fringe performances this year, and they were hit-or-miss. For us the “Cabaret” show we saw, which was presented every day and promoted shows at the fest, was a big miss. It seemed to promote the poorly attended shows at the festival. But the “Best of the Show” performance we saw was as advertised; it seemed to promote the best shows in the festival. “The Nature of Forgetting” was the best play we saw. We also saw an artsy play that included audience participation. Mercifully for them, I’ve forgotten the name of that play. Let’s just say, “Patron beware.” Of course the Canadian-themed shows were the funniest. Everyone knows the best comedians come from Canada. (:
Click on our photos below for more about our experiences at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival.
The lines between The International Festival and The Fringe Festival seem blurred at times as the two festivals cover many of the same art forms.The International Festival, just One of the Edinburgh Festivals in August, Scotland, 2017.
Here is a sampling of the 1000s of shows that were available at Fringe Fest 2017.The Edinburgh Fringe Festival, another of the Edinburgh Festivals in August, Scotland, 2017.
The venues for the Edinburgh International Festival and Edinburgh Fringe Festival are scattered throughout Edinburgh, but the largest concentration for both festivals is in the centre of the city.Castlehill Street during the Edinburgh Festivals in August, Scotland, 2017.
Some of the street performers we saw at the Edinburgh Festivals were excellent.Street Musicians at the Edinburgh Festivals, Scotland, 2017.
Classical theatre at Fringe is the best. LOL!A Zombie Comedy at Fringe Festival, Edinburgh Festivals, Scotland, 2017.
Buskers at the Edinburgh Festivals entertain the children and adults alike.A Living Statue Busker of Madame Curie at the Edinburgh Festivals, Scotland, 2017.
Beyond the Edinburgh Festivals
The city of Edinburgh is rapt with history and architecture. They were best explored in group tours, first of Old Town, and then of New Town. After the tours, we revisited the most interesting sites on our own at a more leisurely pace.
Two of the most appealing historical accounts were of Wojtek, the Soldier Bear, and of Bobby, the ultra-loyal Skye Terrier.
Food in Edinburgh was, perhaps surprisingly, good. We even enjoyed Scottish tapas consisting of fish, seafood, Scottish meats and cheeses, and haggis. Haggis was available at most restaurants. And yes, Rick liked Haggis. We never saw a sheep’s stomach, which haggis is traditionally cooked in, nor one of the artificial casings it is usually cooked in today. Instead, the haggis was served in a mound as a little side-dish. It looked much like turkey dressing, had a nutty texture and a very savoury flavour.
Click on our photos below for more about our experiences in Edinburgh. Then visit Wojtek, The Soldier Bear for the full story of the bear that “joined” the Polish army.
The north side of Edinburgh Castle looks down over the Princess Street Gardens and New Town.Edinburgh Castle atop Castle Rock. Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
The Last Drop Pub, in the Greater Grassmarket neighbourhood of Edinburgh, Scotland, is named after the gallows that were located there in the 18th century. The pub is rumoured to be haunted.The Last Drop Pub, Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
The Writer’s Museum, in Makar's Court at the end of Lady Stair’s Close, celebrates three of Scotland’s greatest writers: Robert Burns, Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson.The Writer's Museum in Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
This monument in The Princess Street Gardens recognizes the Polish contribution in WWII, and one Wojtek, the Soldier Bear that drank, smoked and carried weapons for the Polish Army.Monument to Wojtek and the Polish Army. Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
One of the ubiquitous kilt and tartan shops in downtown Edinburgh. Scotland.A Kilt and Tartan Shop in Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
The Scott monument, located in The Princess Street Gardens, Edinburgh, is a Victorian Gothic monument to Sir Walter Scott. As per Wikipedia, it is the largest monument to a writer in the world.The Sir Walter Scott Monument, Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
The ceiling of the Bank of Scotland’s Main Branch in New Town.Main Hall of the Bank of Scotland Building, Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
The Balmoral Hotel is a 5-star hotel in New Town, Edinburgh, across the valley from Old Town. The valley between Old Town and New Town used to be a river valley. Raw sewage from Old Town was drained into the river for centuries. To clean up the problem, the river was drained and filled in. New Town was built on the other side of the valley for the upper class to live and work. The valley is now the location of The Princess Street Gardens, the Edinburgh Waverley train station, the Scott Monument and many other sites. The Balmoral Hotel in New Town, Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
Tartans everywhere in Edinburgh, Scotland.Tartan Tam-o'-Shanters in Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
The Maiden, which is also called the Scottish Maiden, long predates the French guillotine. It was constructed in the 1500's. Today, it is on display in Edinburgh at the National Museum of Scotland.The Scottish Maiden at the National Museum in Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
The south side of Edinburgh Castle overlooks the Greater Grassmarket neighbourhood of Edinburgh, Scotland.Edinburgh Castle atop Castle Rock. Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
A Celtic Harp (called a Clarsach in Scottish Gaelic) is on display in Edinburgh at the National Museum of Scotland.A Celtic Harp at the National Museum in Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
The crypts in Greyfriars Kirkyard (churchyard and cemetary) are made of stone that has blackened over the years. This blackening is characteristic of many of the Gothic buildings in Edinburgh, including the Scott Monument and the old church that is now The Hub event venue. I never learned why the stone blackened.A Crypt in Greyfriars Kirkyard, Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
I don’t understand why this creepy novelty and tour shop has been allowed to operate in Greyfriars Kirkyard (churchyard and cemetary). It seems disrespectful. But then the abundance of 'haunted' places in the city attract tourists to Edinburgh, Scotland.The Creepy Wee Shop in the Graveyard, Greyfriars Kirkyard, Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
Scottish Tapas at the North Bridge Brasserie were a fabulous afternoon treat. They included beef, haggis, Orkney scallops, radish, a Scottish egg, and smoked salmon with Blue Murder blue cheese.Scottish Tapas in Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
Bobby, The Ultra-Loyal Skye Terrier
the Skye Terrier, is a most heart-warming story of love and loyalty. Bobby laid on his master’s grave in Greyfriars Kirkyard (a cemetary) for 14 years until Bobby died at age 16.
Click on our photos below for more about Bobby. For the full story on Bobby, visit Greyfriars Bobby.
Bobby, an ultra-loyal Skye Terrier, led his master's funeral procession to the gravesite in Greyfriars Kirkyard, a churchyard and graveyard in Edinburgh, Scotland. After the procession, Bobby refused to leave the gravesite, laying on his master’s grave for the next 14 years until Bobby died at age 16. Bobby is buried in the cemetery.Bobby, the Ultra-Loyal Skye Terrier. Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
When Bobby's master was alive, he and Bobby went to the pub next to Greyfriars Kirkyard for lunch most days. After his master's death, Bobby left his master’s gravesite once a day to eat at the same pub when the cannon at the Edinburgh Castle was fired at 13:00 hours. The pub was later renamed Greyfriars Bobby Pub to honour Bobby. Edinburgh, Scotland.Bobby, the Ultra-Loyal Skye Terrier, Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
A statue of Bobby sits outside Greyfriars Bobby Pub. Tourists have rubbed Bobby’s nose for good luck so often that it had to be restored twice. Edinburgh, Scotland.Bobby, the Ultra-Loyal Skye Terrier, Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
The Closes of Edinburgh
Edinburgh originally consisted of a main street with several “closes”, which is Scottish for alleyways, leading north and south from the street. The closes were named after a well-known occupant or trade in the alley. There are about a hundred of them. Today, they connect the main street with other streets.
Click on our photos below for more about closes.
Lady Stair’s Close, which is not named after the staircase on its right, is the location of the Writer’s Museum. The museum was formerly the house of the First Earl of Stair.Lady Stair's Close, Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
Anchor Close is named after the nearby Anchor Tavern. It was also the location of a group named ‘Anchor Tavern Howff of the Crochallan Fencibles’, which was famous for inciting resistance to invasion from mainland Europe. Edinburgh, Scotland.Anchor Close, Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
Fleshmarket Close was where the meat vendors sold their goods. Edinburgh, Scotland.Fleshmarket Close, Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
Stevenlaw’s Close is named after Steven Law, who supported Queen Mary during the Civil War of 1571. Edinburgh, Scotland.Stevenlaw's Close, Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
The Old Fishmarket Close was where the fishmongers sold their products in the old days. Edinburgh, Scotland.The Old Fishmarket Close, Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
Harry Potter Land
Many locations in Old Town Edinburgh have connections to the Harry Potter novels. J. K. Rowling is believed to have used locations in Edinburgh as inspiration while writing the books.
Click on our photos below for more about Edinburgh’s connections to Harry Potter.
West Bow-Victoria St, Edinburgh, is said to be J. K. Rowling’s inspiration for Diagon Alley in her Harry Potter books. Edinburgh, Scotland.West Bow-Victoria St, Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
My pic of the top of Diagon Alley (aka Victoria Street) was photo-bombed by a van advertising the War Pigs Fringe Fest show. LOL!The Top of Victoria Street, Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
Diagon House on Victoria St is a store that specializes in all things Harry Potter. Edinburgh, Scotland.Diagon House on Victoria St, Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
The Elephant House Tearoom and Restaurant, George IV Bridge, Edinburgh, was frequented by the likes of J. K. Rowling and Ian Rankin. The tearoom proclaims that it is the 'birthplace' of Harry Potter. Rowling denies that, but she admits she wrote some of the books there. Edinburgh, Scotland.The Elephant House Tearoom and Restaurant, Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
The Anderson Name
According to the National Museum of Scotland, the Anderson name in Scotland originated in the Shetland Islands. It says the Shetland Islands were settled by the Norse in the Middle Ages, the time of the Vikings. Hence the similarity between the Scottish Anderson, Swedish Andersson and Danish Andersen. In conclusion, HOLY CRAP!! I MAY BE A VIKING! “ODIN OWNS YE ALL!” “TYR!” LOL!
According to legend, and Wikipedia, Óengus II (king of the Picts) chose St. Andrew as the patron saint of Scotland in 832 AD. It is St. Andrew’s cross, the Saltire, on the Scottish flag today. The name Anderson means “Andrew’s son”. So maybe, just maybe, St Andrew is at the head of my family tree. Okay, maybe not. (:
Click on our photos below for more history around the Anderson name.
This map of the surnames of Scotland shows the origin of each clan within Scotland. Note the Anderson clan in the Shetland Islands at the top right. The National Museum of Scotland in Edinburgh.Map of the Scottish clans in Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
This statue of St. Andrew, the Patron Saint of Scotland, is in the National Museum of Scotland, in Edinburgh. It is said that the followers of St. Andrew migrated to north-western Europe, Scandinavia, the Shetland Islands, and Scotland. My surname, Anderson, is patronymic. It means 'Andrew's son.' So is it possible I am descended from an Apostle? I've been told I look like this statue. LOL!Statue of St. Andrew, Patron Saint of Scotland, Edinburgh, 2017.
A Nod to Rick’s Hometown
According to Wikipedia, John Galt was a Scottish novelist, entrepreneur, and political and social commentator. He was the first superintendent of the Canada Company that was formed in the early nineteen century to populate a large part of what is now Southern Ontario, then known as Upper Canada. The area was known as the Huron Tract. Galt’s company built cities, roads, mills, etc. throughout the area. He selected what later became Guelph, Ontario, Rick’s hometown, as the company’s headquarters, and began to develop a town there. Galt has been commemorated for his written works at Makar’s Court, outside the Writer’s Museum in Edinburgh Scotland. “birr and smeddum” is from his Annals of the Parish, and means “energy and spirit”.
Click on our photo below for more about John Galt.
John Galt, a Scottish novelist and entrepreneur, was the first superintendent of the Canada Company. He settled and populated a large part of what is now Southern Ontario, Canada, including Rick's hometown of Guelph, Ontario. Galt has been commemorated for his written works at Makar’s Court, outside the Writer’s Museum in Edinburgh, Scotland. “birr and smeddum” is from his Annals of the Parish, and means “energy and spirit”.John Galt's Paving Slab in Makar's Court, Old Town, Edinburgh, Scotland, 2017.
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